The Body Work

002For completeness sake I am mentioning stripping and repainting the inside of the body. Stripping the floor pan was the same as the underside but the side walls required machine and manual sanding to avoid the warping011 sandblasting can cause. Another difference about painting the inside was all the braces and hidden small areas that needed to be coated. There were places where a standard spray gun would not fit. Luckily they make a smaller version.

019035As I said in my first post about this car, I was really surprised about how much damage there was on a new body. My first step was to find all the dents. To do that I employed a hand-sanding block. Once I had sanded down to the bare metal, the primer remaining showed me where the low spots were. Next I started filling those areas with smooth, thin coats of body filler. Its never a good idea to expect to fill a dent with one coat and the smoother it can be applied, the easier it is to sand – very important when fewer machines and more muscles are used for sanding. Two other hints: Its best to purchase body filler from a professional jobber rather than a chain store (non-professional bondo can dry to the consistancy of concrete!), and don’t be afraid to try sanding with a rougher grit sandpaper (maybe 36 grit) before the filler is completely dry. Just keep a blowgun handy to blow the soft filler out of the sand paper. These hints can save both time and effort without effecting quality or durablility.

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